Finishing cherry wood

Find Inspiration Now. How to finish cherry wood. What is the best way to finish cherry wood? What are the best uses for cherry wood?

The main problem with finishing cherry wood is that it has a tendency to blotch with any kind of stain or tinted oil. What this means is, the grain in the wood absorbs different amount of stain color at different rates and depths. This causes some areas to be darker, some lighter and that causes the blotchy look.

And there are a couple of aesthetic decisions along the way. The last of the two secret ingredients in my simple cherry finish is beeswax. Apply the wax sparingly and allow it to dry thoroughly (about minutes) before buffing the finish to a lovely sheen.

Go ahead and apply a few more light coats and you’re done. This environmentally safe finish can be renewed very eas­ily. To best tell how I finish cherry at the school, I’ve created the storyboard below to show the finishing steps at a glance.

My process always begins by sanding the wood to 2grit and then wiping it clean. Before using any finishing products, be sure to slip on protective gloves. Next, apply boiled linseed oil to pop the color and grain. So you have to figure out for yourself how the cherry you are using will finish.

This is much easier to do with surfaced cherry than with rough lumber. With both situations, the easiest way to see how a finish will look on the wood is to wet the wood. When buying cherry stock, look for boards with uniformity of color and as straight of stock as you. One of the best attributes of this hardwood species is that it sands to a very smooth finish , a prerequisite. My normal regimen for cherry starts with a liberal application of BLO that is allowed to soak in for about a half hour before wiping any excess off.

I allow that to cure for a few days and then apply a coat of dewaxed garnet shellac. In some cases, that is the finish. Free 2-day Shipping On Millions of Items.

Explore our Preparation Products Now. All finishes will allow the cherry to darken with UV and all will protect the wood to some degree. Make sure you think about how the table is likely to be used and how practiced you are with the finish you intend to use. We took to the shop to find the most succulent cherry finish that will make your project stand out from the crowd. Unlike the distinct pale white of maple, or the rich dark of walnut, cherry exists in a constant state of flux.

You’ll see muted pale fresh planed boards, light-to-medium golden aged boards, and even rich brownish-red well-aged projects. Dampen the surface with Mineral spirits and use a card scraper pulled toward me to take out any last tears that you. The next day sit in sun 4. Cherry is a peculiar wood. Waiting until it dries may. Don’t use a course abrasive like 80-grit sandpaper on cherry if you can avoid it.

Start with 120-grit to prevent. For staining, remember that the courser. It’s not difficult to get the aged look of cherry furniture without waiting years for the wood to darken. It starts with stain, thinned with mineral spirits, applied directly to the wood. Sand the cherry to 2grit, and then apply a thinned coat of Old Masters Wiping Stain in cedar with a rag or foam brush.

First use a mix of Zinners Sealcoat with Denatured Acohol ( this will stop the bloching assoiciated with cherry ). I know some don’t like to stain cherry, but this stain gives a near instant aged look and is it easy to control the color. Seal endgrain areas with a thin washcoat of shellac, then flood the wood with oil. Let it cure for a week, then brush or spray on several coats of lacquer.

Once the lacquer is fully cure rub out the finish using very fine wet-or-dry sandpaper followed by polishing compounds. Instead of using stains, they get the color with glazes and toners. Glazes are thickened stain applied in between coats of finish.

Toners are the finish itself with the color (usually dye) added. Give All Your Projects The Perfect Finish With Varathane Classic Wood Stain.